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three and four.

June 2, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli, photos Leave a Comment

I made my third and fourth trips to the hospital yesterday. And, jumping ahead a little in the stories, I woke up last night having nightmares about hospitals and medicine.

Yesterday was a long day.

About 7:45am I walked out to find the little boy with the burn. I piled into the car with him and his two older sisters, who both speak Burmese, and we headed off to the hospital to get his dressings changed.

They told us it opened at 8am, and I was trying to get an early start since I had somewhere to be at 8:45am.

But having lived in Thailand for a year and a half now, I should have known better.

It actually opened at 8:30am, at which point you have to get a plastic number, which are apparently worth running and scowling at the white person for. We ended up with Number 8.

(I would not have survived the Hunger Games.)

We then proceeded to sit for the next two hours waiting for our turn. I did get to see the Thai national anthem play: it plays every day at 8am and 6pm in more public areas of town that have televisions; mostly places I am not usually at these hours.

Stephen kindly came at 8:30am to take the truck to pick up volunteers and a Partners staff member to deliver them to our house. We had planned to do a health check with our neighborhood community.

I arrived around 10:30am, just as hand washing was in practice.

The next six hours were spent checking kids and families for ear infections, skin infections, scabies, school sores, lice, chest infections, and malnourishment. It was a great experience to reconnect with the families and bring some basic help. A visiting nurse from New Zealand, Ruth, worked with our medical staff coordinator, Hsar Paw, to take time with each child or mother. They had brought medicine with them, which we handed out with instructions in Burmese.

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We found an upsetting amount of lice, but that doesn’t take much and didn’t surprise me. There were two ear infections, including one little sweetheart who cried when Ruth went to check his ears. She eventually had a look, determined it was an infection, and he promptly fell asleep exhausted in my lap. Probably one of the highlights of my day.

I’m not sure I’d call this a highlight, but another anecdote about the day: some of the antibiotics we were giving the families needed to be refrigerated. I was willing to have them come to our house to take them, but it seemed wise to ask if they had access to a fridge first. I asked Hsar Paw to ask them if they had a fridge. After asking, they responded very enthusiastically. Hsar Paw replied, “Yes, they would love to have a fridge!”  I quickly explained that we weren’t actually giving away refrigerators today, but just wanted to see if they had access to one. They said yes, they had two, but another was welcomed. 🙂

By the end of the day Ruth & Hsar Paw had checked most of the children and many adults, maybe about forty? As we walked around the community to see if there was anyone else, someone mentioned a woman down the road that was having some issues. They went to get her, and she came up to the house obviously in pain. Her leg had been bitten by a dog yesterday, and it was quite clearly infected. Not only did it need to be cleaned, but she probably needed tetanus and rabies shots, too.

Thus, hospital trip number four arrived at my door.  After coordinating to drop off Ruth and the volunteers from Arkansas, I headed off to the hospital with Hsar Paw and this elderly woman. And this is where the real adventure began.

The woman spoke Poh Karen, which is another dialect of Karen. Thus, although a few words are similar, we couldn’t really communicate. Thankfully, Hsar Paw knows five languages–yes, five–and Poh Karen is one of them.

I won’t go through all of the details of the hospital except this: I did get to see the Thai national anthem play again, which to me was simply a clear sign I should spend less time at the hospital. Oh, and rabies treatment is expensive, requires another four visits to the hospital, and appears very uncomfortable. Oh, my.

Around 7pm, Hsar Paw had to go pick up another woman and her baby who had just arrived from Chiang Mai after the baby went up for surgery. In the end, we had this younger mother with her two-month-old baby, this elderly woman, and I in the car. Hsar Paw left on her motorbike to go home. The plan was this: I drop off the mother & her baby at one home, stop by Hsar Paw’s house for medicine for the older woman, and then drop the older woman off at her house, which is very near to mine.

When we arrived at our first stop, I told the mother in Karen than she & her baby could get out to stay here. She said thank you and climbed out of the car. It was at this point that the older woman in the front seat began to stand up on the seat. I try to tell her to sit down, stay, wait, etc., but none of these seem to be the words that are the same between Sgaw Karen & Poh Karen. Or she was ignoring me.

Either way, I now have a very elderly woman standing the seat next to me.

She then starts climbing to the back seat, and eventually out of the car. I had no idea what she was doing, but I began to get out. She ran to the front of the car and looked around the corner of the road. She then ran to the back of the car and looked around that corner.

At this point I was thinking maybe she had to go to the bathroom or vomit. I decided to see what she was going to do, until she started to walk away, pointing, and said, “Hsa Thoo Lei?”

And it clicked. Hsa Thoo Lei is a migrant school right near our house; I realized she thinks I’ve taken her home but doesn’t know which way it is. In reality, we’re a good 5 kilometers from her house, and she won’t make it there in the dark and with the sense of direction I’m observing.

As she started to walk away, I tried to convince her to get back in the car. Fail.

I tred to call Hsar Paw and explain. This took a little while anyway, because Hsar Paw was trying to convince me it was okay for the mother and baby to get out of the car. It took a minute to explain it was the old woman I couldn’t get back in the truck.

Oh, my.

There was a Karen man nearby, so I went for it. I tried to tell him in Karen that she speaks Poh Karen, and I don’t. I told him she thinks this is her house, and it’s not. And I really just need her to get back in the car and I’ll take her home!

And then he and I chased her around the car a few times trying to convince her to get in.

Eventually, she did, and I thanked him heartily.

When we got back to our house, she hopped out pretty quickly. She did thank us as she walked away, but I kind of wonder if she’ll come to the hospital with me next Monday for her next rabies treatment. I can’t say it seemed like a good experience for her.

Funnily enough, Stephen, having not been there for all of this, says to me, “Is she okay? She looks terrified.”

twice.

May 31, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli Leave a Comment

I just returned from my second trip to the hospital this week.

It isn’t my favorite spot in Mae Sot. It does the job, and I would be admitted there if need be; but it’s a little scary. It could definitely be used as a set for a horror movie.

Either way, the first trip was for my sweet friend, Mary. She is now limping with a broken, casted foot.

And this evening, just as Stephen had left to go pick up the visiting volunteers for a prayer night, the neighbors ran up to the door.  At first I thought they were saying “cold water,” so I grabbed a bowl and filled it from our water cooler. It was about then that I realized they were saying “hot water.” I turned as they pulled the little screaming toddler into the light. I saw his little chest was burned, and the skin was coming off in sheets. He had grabbed a cup of water for a drink, but it was boiling; he poured in down his chin and onto his chest.

I called Stephen to come back quickly, and the team jumped out of the car. I jumped in with the little boy’s two sisters and our dear friend, Mong Ey;  she is our connection to the community who speaks Karen.

And thus began the chaos of languages. The nurses kept asking if I know Thai, while Mong Ey used Burmese to talk to the girls, and the girls used a little bit of Thai to speak to the nurses. I used Karen with Mong Ey and some English with the nurses and staff.

I wish I knew more languages. But I’m thankful I did know enough Karen for us to get by, however choppy it may have been.

The little boy was bandaged up and treated quickly, but it took another hour or so to sort out paperwork, again between Burmese, Thai, Karen and English; manage to get our hands on some antibiotics and pain medicine; and pay $9 for all the services.

Whew.

If I wasn’t tired enough today, I am now.

But the little boy is doing better and sleeping, and I received an animated Karen lesson for the day.

batik: part two.

May 29, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli, photos Leave a Comment

This weekend I also went back to finish up my batik course, now that the dyes had completely dried. I went back to the studio on Sunday morning to paint silicon on top of the dyes. This locks in the color, so any part I didn’t completely coat in silicon would lose most of its color.

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We then left to let this dry for most of the day. I went for a run & swim, made tortillas for dinner, and went to home church. We went back around 4pm to find the silicon dried and the fabric dark and stiff. Our teacher showed us how to wash out the silicon with cold water.

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For the final step, we boiled each piece in water with laundry detergent and some sort of acid mixed in.  There are a few photos of my pieces wet below, and then at home after they had dried.

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I can’t say either of my pieces turned out exactly as I envisioned. Nor am I sure what to do with them: a large “napkin” of a tree and a scarf in Thailand? But, I loved the process. It was such an experience to learn the age-old techniques, enjoy the teaching of local Burmese artists, and simply use my right brain for awhile!

On a side note, more pictures of Stephen to come. He tends to be behind the camera more than in front of it, at least in the good photos, but I’ll work on changing that.

fast.

May 29, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli Leave a Comment

…Because life comes at you fast.

This weekend was joyful, and seems worth mentioning. Yes, I do realize it’s Tuesday, but life just comes at you that fast.

We decided, around 6:00pm, to go on a date Friday night. We were free and it seems we might not be for awhile. So I put on my dress and helmet–a wonderful combination–and we headed off to a new-ish restaurant in Mae Sot. I don’t have any significant comments, except that nothing went wrong. Date nights haven’t always gone smoothly for us in this town–I’m strongly affected by children asking for money or seeing something at the neighbors house; struggling with the guilt of enjoying it. I’m a mess. But this one went off without a hitch, and we happily returned to our house for a movie and cookies.

We welcomed friends on Saturday! The team from Conway arrived, and although I can’t really describe it, I do enjoy that they simply know what the Razorbacks are and where Cantrell is. It really is the little things. They also brought us some treasures, including but not limited to: a huge container of parmesan cheese, new white tees for Stephen, and a stack of political books for me.

As is a part of all good weekends, I also spent plenty of time cooking, making cinnamon rolls for the team and a spread of fajitas with refried beans, salsa, and guacamole for some visiting Chiang Mai staff. Check out this stack of hand-rolled tortillas!

The weekend was topped off swimming some laps in the sun.

And then the week came, full of visitors and helping the team to settle in. Today hit us all in the face as we spent four hours at the local hospital to put one of their dear team members into a foot cast. My sweet friend fell today and broke her fifth metatarsal, and will now be crutching around Mae Sot for a month. To her credit, she was awfully cheerful and optimistic, despite the situation and my poor attempts at humor while we waited.

And now its nearly Wednesday and nearly June. And life is coming fast.

classifiers.

May 25, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli 2 Comments

Learning a new language is difficult.

Karen is admittedly one of the easier languages, so I’m glad we’re starting here. It’s fairly logical and straight forward, which I now see that English is not in the slightest.

Even so, it’s exhausting, and there are times you just want to bail and play the “How about I teach you English instead?” card.

Today in our lesson we discussed classifiers, which is admittedly the most nonsensical aspect of the Karen language that I have discovered to date. I’m not sure if this is common information, but the classifiers work like this, if you translate it to English literally:

I have older sisters, four {insert classifier}.  I will buy pumpkins, two {insert classifier}. I have shoes, one {insert classifier}.

So, you state your object or item, the number, and then the classifier. In the case of sisters, the classifier is for people, because they are people. Easy enough, yeah?

Or an animal: Do you have a cat, one animal?

I can follow this, and it seems simple enough, because there is a category. For the people classifier, you would use this for people: teachers, students, drivers, chefs, businessmen, friends, sisters. For the animals classifier, you would use this for animals: dogs, cats, pigs, horses. Okay. I can follow that.

However, I only knew of three classifiers, and it seemed like there needed to be many more. Unfortunately, the whole concept is really difficult for many Karen to explain, because it comes naturally to them; they don’t know the rules, but what sounds right; and, well, it’s nonsensical. I can completely relate because English is much like this. I don’t know when to use the present participle or past or present perfect, I just know not to say that, but this instead.

Anyway, I broached the subject today. I asked Lavender, “I would like to understand classifiers. I know three: grah, doo, and plu. I understand when to use those. But are there more?”

She said yes, there was one more. She taught me this one, and we tried to identify a category: she gives us a word that uses this classifier, we try to make a connection and guess another word; she tells us if it works or not. This goes on until we can identify a similar theme, or we get too confused or distracted.

As we continued talking, I gathered a list of ten classifiers. And as haphazardly as that came about, I’m certain there are more.

Just to give you a taste, here are the classifiers, and their categories that we came up with:

Please note that it’s too difficult to insert all the Karen here, so I’m just going to sound it out. But if you were here, I’d write it and read for you and you’d be much more impressed.

grah: for people

doo: for animals with four legs that are not slimy

pluh: all things round (balls, corn, cucumbers, pumpkins, tomatoes) ; things that hold other things (a chair, a basket, a box, a bottle, a bag)

bey: for things you can read (books, magazines); things that swim (fish, boats); things that fly (birds, planes); things you wear (shirts, pants)

boh: for things that slither or are snake-like (snakes, lizards, rope, beans)

kah: “things”; from what we gathered, mostly things that you say in English because there isn’t a Karen word, such as a fan, shelf, etc.

koh: shoes, bicycles, cars; not sure on the connection here

dey: leaves (tree leaves, lettuce, spinach, kale)

paw: flowers; which, this is actually the word for flower, so you would repeat it, “paw {number} paw”

too: trees

Are you royally confused?

That was the point. Really? How can things you read, things that swim, things that fly, and things you wear be in the same category, while trees and leaves each have a category to themselves?

Oh, my. And this is only the first language we’re trying to learn.

thursday.

May 25, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli Leave a Comment

I wrote this into a blog about a year ago, and I would write it every week if I could: things don’t really go as planned here.

Ever.

But really, I could say this to you a million times over, but it can’t really be understood without living it.

But as I was bicycling home last night and recounting our day–or really just the afternoon–I thought it was a prime example of things not going as planned.

I’ll warn you now that this might be way too many details for your interest.

It was a typical Thursday in most ways. I’m sure things had already surprised us in the day and we hadn’t accomplished most of the things we intended to, but it really took off at 3:00pm.

Due to Stephen’s motorbike helmet being stolen last weekend, we’ve been biking to work this week. If it’s raining, Stephen has taken the motorbike to protect the computer, but I’ve been doing a lot of biking. He’s felt bad about this, but I remind him that I’m the pansy who won’t drive the motorbike and that our computer is worth more money than most of what we own, and the conversation drops.

We had both taken our bikes to work, so we left at 3:00 to make it to our 3:30 Karen lesson, with a stop at our house on the way. The plan was to drop of the computer to prevent it from getting caught in the rain later and change into our gym clothes so we could bike right to the gym after language lessons.

We arrived home to find the electricity off, which I didn’t think much about. This happens often enough that we were sure it be back on by the time we returned for dinner.

We arrive at our teacher’s house for lessons about 3:40pm to find her not there. We walk into the entry way and sit down, as usual, because sometimes she’s a little late coming from an errand or something. We all run late around here quite freely.

Another Karen woman visiting our teacher comes out speaking in faster Karen than I’m competent with. I caught that Lavender, our teacher, was at the market, but not much else. We sat down to wait.

Another Karen woman runs out, this time with a phone. She has called Lavender, who then tells us that she is at the market, and tomorrow is good for lessons.

Thursday: regularly scheduled lesson, discussed and confirmed at previous lesson on Tuesday. And we’re here.

Friday: not a regularly scheduled lesson.

Oh, okay.

Stephen and I discuss our options: we could bike back across town the office, in our gym clothes, to work for the remaining 45 minutes or so until 5pm. Or we could go to the gym now in appropriate clothing, have dinner, and then go back up to the office tonight.

He has been a little swamped recently, so he wanted to work more hours anyway. We decide to do this: workout until 5ish, bike home, make & eat dinner, then head back to the office about 7pm for a few hours of work while we watch episodes of The Office.

We get to the gym, already sweaty from biking everywhere. And about ten minutes into my run, here is where it hits me: did we pay our electric bill this month? It’s in the “early twenties” of the month, and that’s usually the cut-off point that we barely miss…

Let me just explain: I’m a faithful bill payer. We’re not really the late people on that sort of thing. We pay within the first couple days, or at least week of receiving a bill.

But this country doesn’t always send you the bill.

We learned this a couple months ago, when our internet was shut off. I talked to the office manager and explained that we hadn’t paid for three months, but they hadn’t brought us a bill. How was I to pay it? How can they cut it off if they don’t give us a bill? Also, this has happened before: they won’t send us a bill for one, two, maybe three months, and then we get a large one. It doesn’t bother me; it’s just one less trip to the shop.

She responded in exasperation, because apparently this is obvious, “You still have to pay the bill even if they don’t give you one!”

Oh, so I’m supposed to go the company, about the day its due and ask if I owe them money?

In my opinion, if the company can’t be responsible enough to give me the bill, I shouldn’t be required the responsibility of paying the bill. Personal opinion.

Anyway, I’m jogging on the treadmill and it hits me that there is a pretty good chance our electricity isn’t going to come back on tonight.

Suddenly a night at the office seems pretty appealing: electricity to charge our computers, sit in the aircon, and see each other.

We head home, and Stephen attempts to see if the electric office is still open at 5:30pm. We missed them, so we meet at a pad thai shop to grab some dinner, sans dirty dishes or opening the fridge, and go to the office.

We stay until 11:00pm, because the air is nice, Stephen is getting a lot done, and I’m thoroughly laughing at The Office.

We go to head home, and Stephen sees that the motorbike gas light is blinking, at which point he remembers it was earlier, too…he goes off to get gas while I bicycle home through a ghost town of Mae Sot. I pass two cars, five people, and about eighty dogs.

And street dogs at night are scary. But that’s for another post.

I go up to the house to find a flower stuck through our padlock: a little present from the kids. This one is a fake rose, but they like to stick anything in there as presents for us: picked flowers, sticks, partial vegetables from our compost. This one is much sweeter and makes me smile.

And then we fall asleep in a very, very hot house.

it’s just jim.

May 24, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli Leave a Comment

“Every time I get a call from an area code I don’t recognize, I hyperventilate because I’m sure it’s the IRS calling to tell me I accidentally broke a rule I didn’t know about and I’m going to jail.

But, mostly it’s just Jim from Sweetwater Sound.”

Stephen and I had a good laugh over this email from Kim, and I thought all of you who kindly signed up for Sweetwater’s giveaway in September or this month might appreciate it. Apparently you’re all receiving a number of calls, catalogs, and emails.

Oh, and I should mention that Kim oversees a non-profit, The Spero Project, and that is why she is afraid of upsetting the IRS.

And, we’re still hopeful! This month’s drawing for $33,000 worth of microphones, which include six that would be ideal for Stephen’s recording here on the border, ends in just seven days!

all i have seen.

May 23, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli Leave a Comment

“All I have seen
teaches me
to trust the Creator
for all I have not seen.”

Ralph Waldo Emerson

the office.

May 22, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli Leave a Comment

Since we don’t have a television and relatively little entertainment options, Stephen & I watch through television seasons that we have on our computer.

Sometimes I do believe it becomes a waste of time, but when I think back over some of the hardest parts of this year, laughing to a 22-minute sitcom at the end of the day can go a long way, and I don’t think it’s all bad.

We’ve watched through Friends quite a few times, to the point that it was being quoted too often between us. We decided it was getting a little out of hand.  We’ve also enjoyed quite a bit of Modern Family.  I think I quite liked both of these shows because they presented very American-ized lifestyles: coffee shops, Western houses with soft couches and carpet, families and friends. It also helps that sitcoms tend to stick to “first world problem” story lines and throw in as many funny quips as they can.

As lame as it may seem, I have found that the fascods of facebook and sitcoms have been surprisingly tranquilizing.

Either way, we managed to get the seventh season of The Office added to our collection. This seemed a great reason to start over from the first season, we started that a couple weeks ago.

I have to say it’s not as much of a mollifier as the other shows, and I have a few theories.  For one, it lacks the real relationships of family and friends. It also has more “politically incorrect” aspects to it, which is bothersome when you are over-working yourself to accept and appreciate differences in the culture and friendships around you.

But I’ve decided the real culprit lies in the entire scenario: their office isn’t so different from ours.

And it scares me.

We’re just an odd bunch with very little in common, and among so many cultures, you can be offended by someone pretty easily.

And I don’t really know how else to describe it. It’s a little too close for comfort.

batik: part one.

May 21, 2012 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli, photos Leave a Comment

This weekend, I had a wonderful opportunity to take a batik course in Mae Sot. That’s right, our odd little collection of a border town offered this treasure!

A local nonprofit, Youth Connect, works with Burmese youth that have graduated from migrant high schools. The youth can apply to be a part of an apprenticeship program where they learn life skills and specific studies. Their program covers a variety of areas, including a guesthouse that trains housekeeping, restaurant service, front desk help, and the like; a repair shop that works on motorbikes and bicycles; and the Puzzlebox Art Studio, where they have taught pottery, painting, sewing, batik, and more. The art studio was responsible for designing and decorating the guesthouse over the past couple years, and now they are in the process of becoming self-sustainable through art sales, classes, and an open coffee shop on Saturday mornings.

This weekend I took the first part of a batik course, which is a traditional form of dying material that is quite common among Burmese communities. For my course, there were four of us taking it–myself, another Partners staff member, an eight-year-old and her grandmother visiting from the States. We had one Burmese woman teaching us with the help of a couple students in the apprenticeship program. And for just $33 to a good cause, we worked from 9am to 5pm on Sunday!  I’ll go back to finish next week for 3 to 4 hours.

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I was able to make two pieces. I initially signed up to make a scarf: it seemed small enough to tackle, and I figured any areas I messed up on I could crinkle up around my neck. However, I discovered when we got there that if you sign up to do a scarf, you get to do a napkin, too, which was one of the other options.

Not sure really how that all went down, but I was given the long scarf shape and this square one, which is about 30″ x 30″. This seems pretty big for a napkin, let alone the fact that we’re in Mae Sot and cloth napkins seem a little fancy for us. I just decided to go with my trusty drawing of a tree that I sketch out somewhere on a regular basis. Here it is drawn on with colored pencils, which will come out when we boil it next week. It was stretched onto the frame after I drew it.

This is my scarf with a leaf pattern drawn onto it.

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We then had to follow the drawing with wax, using these pipe-looking tools that you see around here. I don’t know the technicalities, but I learned this:

Sometimes the wax comes out smoothly, and when it does you better move fast.

Sometimes it doesn’t really come out at all, and I’m not really sure why or what I did differently.

Drips won’t look pretty in the end, but they are inevitable for some of us.

The wax is really hot if you drop it on your fingers or toes. Really hot.

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My tree, post-wax.

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My tree with one coat of dye.

They are really into fading, and I can’t say I’m a big fan. But since I really didn’t want to use the fading technique on my scarf and it seemed to be heavily encouraged, I thought I’d try it here. I still can’t say it’s really my style, but we’ll see how it comes out in the end.

Throughout the process it’s hard to imagine what it will really look like in the end. After its very dry, we’ll cover it in silicon and then boil it until all the colored pencil and wax has left the fabric. Quite a bit of a color comes out, too. Thus, what you see now will be a little different, and while you’re painting, it’s difficult to envision it without the wax or with washed out colors.

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Here I moved on to waxing my scarf design.

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My scarf, post-wax. As you can see, I didn’t do as well with the wax on this one. There are tons more drops and uneven lines. But as you’ll see later, this actually wasn’t my biggest problem.

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In an effort to not make this all about myself, I’ll show you a taste of what my fellow staff member was working on. She was working on a larger piece of fabric she’ll be turning into a dress.

She was a more ambitious newbie. And perhaps more successful!

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My scarf with one coat of dye. I had three shades of green, with red and a melon color sprinkled throughout. Here you can see the beginnings of my errors: while some areas had very thick wax lines and drops everywhere, other areas I did the wax line too thin. Since the wax holds the dye in place, some of my dyes ran. Quite a lot of them, really.

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While planning on quite a bit of color to come out, I tried to do two or three coats on everything in an attempt to avoid pastels. I don’t really care for pastels.

This is my final product of the napkin, about three coats in.

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This is my final product of the scarf, complete with a gray-blue background and quite a bit of spreading color spots.

And that’s a wrap. It was a long day outside in the heat while bent over a table or stretched fabric. But, it was such a fun project! I learned so much, and I love taking advantage of unique opportunities we have here.

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