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an adventure.

May 12, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli, photos 5 Comments

I’d have to say this last trip could definitely be titled an adventure. And I think it’s very good we’re here for another reason.  The highlights were by far the encouraging stories and seeing what God is doing; and there were definitely times I was wishing for a magic escape button that read, “Welp, I tried!”

As I look through the photos that attempt to capture this and think through the stories in my head, I can tell you right now this will be a scattered blog–hopefully some will make you laugh, parts will inevitably make you cringe, and you’ll likely be saddened. Consider yourself warned.

First, we headed out about 7 hours to Beung Klung village, right on the border.  We stayed with a Karen family there where the husband oversees the clinic we were continuing onto (about one hour with four-wheel drive or three-ish hours hiking). He’s a make-do doctor, and we happened to witness about three minor surgeries performed on his porch with semi-sterilized tools and cats meandering through.

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We also visited Burma because it’s quite easy to walk across right there. Our group includes Marci (a nurse from America heading up Partners’ medical team; married to a Karen man, Be So Toe, who is taking the photo); Nenana, their daughter; and friends from the family we stayed with. We may or may not have come back from the border with an amazing two-person chair…

We also did medical checks while we were in Beung Klung, just checking a group of kids that come for a program each Saturday (with Compassion International) for basic health problems.

marci-checks-mouth-open.jpgMarci did the real checkups, since she’s actually trained.

k-bandaging-wounds.jpgI helped with cleaning minor cuts with alcohol and bandaging them (some US-level minor and others that would have been of higher concern and made me cringe a little) and giving out de-worming medicine (which Stephen & I also now take every six months). The kids were so sweet and overwhelmingly brave as I used the alcohol on their open cuts and they swallowed the pills spectacularly–much better than me, really.  I must say, though, it’s a mental adjustment to switch to medicine in the remote villages, and American medical staff would have been horrified with our use of the same water cup for all the kids to take medicine.

s-games-with-the-kids.jpgAnd Stephen did an amazing job of entertaining the other kids while they waited their turn! This was an exciting game of Rat, Rat, Elephant (easier to say in Karen than duck & goose).

We also gave out some medical supplies to a man in Beung Klung that was actually over from Burma. He organized a clinic there and was absolutely thrilled to have all the supplies we gave him. It was so wonderful to hear him say “a million thanks, a million thanks” over and over to us. He was beautifully determined to give his life for the sake of his people.

Oh, and at one point while we were in town, a woman touched my leg and told me I had “the whitest legs she had ever seen”. Awesome.

The next day saw our drive to Laytonku. We took the 4-wheel drive the whole way, but it is quite a drive. Extremely steep hills and curves of mud that I really couldn’t describe to you, but these pictures will at least suggest it:

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besoto-running-ahead.jpgAt times Be Soe Toe ran ahead to clear the path of large branches and things.

sk-at-river.jpgAnd we stopped at a lovely river we crossed through.

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truck-in-mud-after-drive.jpg[the muddy truck upon arrival]

ltk-clinic.jpgThis is the clinic in Laytonku that Partners supports. We delivered supplies, Marci did some training with the four staff doctors, and we stayed in the dormitory rooms here. The clinic sees about 300 patients per month, treating for basic needs of malaria, anemia, worms, colds, and infections.

Within fifteen minutes of our arrival in Laytonku, a dog was killed on our behalf, just about twenty feet behind us. (They truly know how to welcome me!) I’ll leave out too many details of the dripping blood and cooking it whole over the fire and just say I never expected a charred dog to look like that…and it really didn’t taste too bad!

The evening we arrived, we had dinner and then sat around on the porch as one of doctors played the Karen harp for us. As I sat in our room doorway listening, I kept hearing a rustling to my right. I’d look back to see nothing, until the third time when I saw a large rodent curry past about a foot behind me. I jumped up pretty quickly and they asked what it was. I calmed relayed it was either a mouse or a rat, to which a Karen man looked in our room and said, “Yes, maybe. It’s possible.”  To this I wanted to reply, “Possible? We’ve moved beyond possible. It’s definitely there. Now what are we going to do about it?”  But they didn’t seem to interested in doing much about it at all, so I sat back down and wondered how I was going to sleep on the floor with this fellow.

Turns out, he was quite busy, so we got to listen to him for most of the night. He would rummage around loudly in a rice sack, shimmy up the door frame, and cross over the ceiling beam. He’d deliver something and hurry back for more. I got a good look at him each time he’d cross the ceiling beam that was lit from the main light. It was either an abnormally large mouse or a normal size rat. I decided I would rather it be a mouse and convinced myself of such.

I read a quote while we were there from Allan Eubank, a missionary in Thailand since the 1960s, with his son having started Free Burma Rangers.  He noted during one of his times in a remote village, “We try to keep our minds on high spiritual things yet little distractions occupy so much of our attention. It seems that much of my notes are on trivial difficulties that are strange to my former life.” My thoughts exactly.

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The grounds of the clinic were absolutely lovely. This is from the clinic porch looking into Burma.

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And to give you a picture of what the clinic operates like…

ltk-doctor.jpgone of the doctors

ltk-medicine.jpgthe newly delivered medicines

ltk-patients.jpga young patient with malaria; the IV is hanging from a nail above

ltk-clinic-records.jpgthe clinic records for Marci to look over

ltk-boy-with-mosquito-net.jpgWe also delivered some mosquito nets, which this little boy was clearly happy to receive!

sk-with-cheek-powder.jpgThis is before heading out for church on Sunday.

ltk-fam-mourning.jpgOn the way, we stopped by the home of this family. (Actually, Eliya on the far right was the head doctor from Beung Klung.)  The village was fairly quiet while we were there because there had been an incident just a couple days before. Because Laytonku is so close to the border and quite difficult to get to from Thailand, they do a lot of trade with Burma.  The headmaster and vice headmaster of the village (brothers) and their father had been asked to come to a meeting with the local Burmese leaders to discuss trade in the area. They agreed to all the terms of trade, but then as they were leaving, the Burmese Army shot at them, killing the vice headmaster. In the photo above, the widowed wife is to the right, and the older woman is the mother.  Two of his children are in the photo, but one was away with the father & headmaster, reporting the story.

And so we visited this family in mourning, with very little to offer. We took time to pray for them and allowed our hearts to break for them.

I’m still processing this.

We also visited another family with two girls who had been helped by the local clinic.

two-girls-helped-by-clinic.jpgAren’t they lovely? They are cousins, but they live in the same home. Two of the kids were orphaned and are now living with their aunt.  The girl on the right had a cleft-lip surgery done that has healed up very well. The girl on the left had a bad case of TB and was malnourished. They are both in great health now.

We were scheduled to leave Monday to go back to Beung Klung for a night, but it rained for a lot of the morning. We decided to try heading back through the mud, but a little while in decided it was quite a risk with the truck loaded down with people. After about 15 minutes of driving, we hopped out to walk while Eliya drove it back the rest of the way.  Stephen and I, Marci, Be Soe Toe, and Nenana hiked back.  This was about half an hour in, before it started to pour. Really, really pour.

ltk-walking-back.jpgWhat you can’t tell in this photo, too, is that I’m barefoot–the mud is really hard to grip in with flipflops.  And when you’re walking up extremely steep hills, you have to grip by walking on the rocks and patches of grass/thorns. Thus, you have about two hours of what most would call “adventure”: walking in the rain barefoot, walking on little pieces of shale, wringing out my skirt every little while, picking out a few thorns, and learning to control your slides in the mud.  It was fun in some ways; the hike was absolutely gorgeous. But I am still suffering from sliced up, sore feet three days later!

And so were home and really thankful we went. It was really encouraging to see what God is doing through Partners and be a part of bringing a few small glimmers of hope.

reposted.

May 12, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli, stephen 2 Comments

Oh, yes, we were re-posted to the Partners blog 🙂

(Unfortunately, this link is no longer available. You’ll have to simply enjoy this blog!)

familiar faces.

May 12, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli 1 Comment

We’re a little swamped catching up from our last trip.

We came home with everything wet–blankets, sheets, clothes, and shoes. Multiple loads of laundry is difficult when it somehow has to all get hung up to dry and some of it (Karen shirts and sarongs) must be washed by hand. And then there’s the pressure of time before things begin to mold here…

We also had to make it to the grocery stores and markets for food since we don’t have many things that are on-hand in the cupboard or frozen. And then there are the emails that bombard you when you don’t have internet for a few days.

Alas, we’re slowing catching up and will hopefully post stories soon.

Until then, we’re happy to say we were greeted by friends from Conway, Arkansas, this morning!  The team from UCA arrived into Mae Sot last night and will be here for about six weeks. It was so fun to see them and the HUGE box of treasures that they brought for us!

And so, we’re happy they’re here. It’s really nice to see familiar faces.

school uniforms, shoes, & umbrellas

May 5, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli 2 Comments

I stayed up late the night before we left sorting through paperwork and reading about the individual hostels that Partners supports.  There are fourteen children’s homes, each with fifty to one hundred students, along the border that Partners gives monthly allowances to,  providing food for the students and a small stipend for the caregivers. We also provide hygiene packs each quarter, giving each student shampoo, washing powder, candles, a toothbrush & toothpaste, and soap.

I read through the reports on each home, telling how many children were at each, how many caregivers, and short story about the home–how it began, how the children got there, what a typical day looks like.  At the end of each report, there is a needs section that overviews the requests of each home.

Partners can’t supply all their needs, and we’ve actually had to make some budget cuts in the past year due to decreased giving. This happens alongside all the other NGOs, including the Thailand Burma Border Consortium (TBBC) that provides all the building materials in the refugee camps.  Most homes now have requests for building materials (bamboo and leaves) since TBBC won’t be able to give as much this year, either.

I have mixed feelings as I read. I’m amazed at the number of orphans and split families (where the family is in Burma or another camp but has sent the student to study) that create the need for these homes.  I’m amazed at the small funds (in the grand scheme of the global economy) that it takes to support these homes: to create hygiene packs for all the students (around 930, according to my calculations at 2 in the morning), it costs around $2,500 dollars each quarter, which is around $2.68 per child. I’m saddened by the hurting children and their photos, while I’m encouraged that people are hearing their cries. Most importantly, the Lord is hearing their cries, and he’s sending people like us.

But what really struck me the most was what I read on each needs list: school uniforms, shoes, and umbrellas for each child.  At the end of the day, they just need shoes. They need uniforms so they can go to school.  And they need umbrellas for rainy season.

It makes it all so human.

I think of all the political talk about closing the camps, sanctions with Burma, and if Burma is now a democracy.  It’s all heartbreaking.  And the biggest reason why is because they’re missing the people.

It’s so easy to zoom out, to start putting titles on governments and declaring them democratic or free or developing; to make policies that affect global trade; to sit through dialogues and debates and committee meetings.

But somehow, we miss the people.  The people that make up the governments; the people that participate in the trade; the people sitting in their own community meetings. The people who are just kids needing school uniforms, shoes, and umbrellas.

[Can I just throw in here that I don’t think I sound much like a political science major? Oops.]

good day.

May 5, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli, photos 2 Comments

First, we received a really, really wonderful package today!  We got a package from the Bakers (the Spurlock’s neighbors and best friends since who knows when) this afternoon at the office, but it was quite a busy day, so we had waited to open until we were at home and could actually enjoy it all. I assumed it was to both of us, and really more to Stephen since he’s known them forever, and I still thought that was so sweet of them to send it.  Then when we got home and I asked Stephen if he wanted to open it, he said it was up to me since it was for me.

What?!

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Oh, yes, another birthday package!  They included cake mix, frosting mix, candles, and cookie mix for a celebration, plus a huge gift for me that included–post it notes (SO expensive here and I’ve been wanting them, but just couldn’t bring myself to do it!), stationery (another thing I just can’t find in Mae Sot; isn’t that odd?), candies, picture frames for the fridge, and a $20 iTunes gift card!  Stephen & I just looked through it over and over and talked about how creative it all was, so unexpected, and really perfect for what we could want and not get here.

Y’know how the most unexpected things really brighten your day?  Well, it did.

And though not comparable, another fun thing today: a garage sale!  There is a family moving from Mae Sot at the end of the month and they were hosting a garage sale this weekend.   We are headed out of town tomorrow and would miss it, but they mentioned lots of good things in their flier. We decided to ask if we could come early. How popular could garage sales be in Mae Sot? Maybe they’ll take what they can get.

And they did! We got to visit early today and found a whole host of things, including:

(By the way, this probably really emphasizes my frugality, which was already pretty strong in the States and is just getting stronger in a place where you can live even cheaper!)

– a desk for just $25 which Stephen’s really excited to be able to use for recording

– two small bookshelves

– a wooden cutting board, about 3″ thick that is actually a slice of a tree trunk where you can see all the rings; really lovely, I think

– three picture frames

– a floor mat, so we can welcome people into our home with true Karen style (by rolling out a floor mat)

– a pretty basket

– curtains for our room! I’m excited about this because they were just $6 and helped us to eliminate the really awful pink curtains that came with the house

img_5192.jpgI know, they look boring. But they are so much better than the pink, and fun turning into ugly is a very hard line to walk here…

img_51951.jpg…and look at the cute button detail at the top!

– the last steal was some clothes for me–six shirts, a sweater, and a pair of pants for just $6. And it included this shirt, which I thought was quite a deal.

img_5191.jpg It’s a new Columbia shirt with sun-protection, quick-dry material, and anti-microbial (which means you don’t really have to shower!) with a $65 tag on it. Not bad for less than $1 in Mae Sot!

On a more we’re-here-for-a-purpose note, we also had a good day at the office. It was long–we didn’t get home until about 5:30pm, despite our schedule of being at the office MWF from 9am to 1pm.  We did work on some planning for our first team coming in June, including their itinerary and budget. We got things together for our trip tomorrow–we’re leaving to visit a Karen village and clinic that Partners and FBR support.  It’s a very traditional community, and we’re really looking forward to getting to know some contacts there. We’ll also be stopping by a refugee camp on the way back to deliver hygiene packs and allowances to the children’s homes we support there. This is part of the Children’s Projects job we’re helping with for May, June, & July.  All this to say: we had jobs, we did them, and we enjoyed them!

Anyway, these are probably very little things to people who read our blog, but it was a good day.

…And very welcomed.

So now we’re signing off from internet, phones, and offices for a few days; even leaving the computer behind. We’re looking forward to it!

recurring conversations.

May 3, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli 8 Comments

We have so many repeat conversations it’s actually shocking.

My favorite market is actually a back extension of the huge Burmese market in town. We park on a side road in the back and walk down through my favorite vegetable ladies that sell good vegetables at really good prices. We then continue to further, past an area with lots of pools of fresh fish, to get to other vegetable stands and find whatever the ladies didn’t have. When we pass the fish pools, we have this conversation:

S: “Oh, look. That makes me feel a lot better about the fish sitting out in the sun in the other market.”

[silent stare as I contemplate if this is really happening, again]

S: “What? I’m thinking they have buy the fish fresh here and resell them over there, so maybe they’re not sitting out all day, necessarily.”

K: “Oh, I understand the thought process. I just can’t believe we’re having this same conversation. Again.”

S: “What do you mean?”

K: “We just had this conversation last week when we came to the market. Almost verbatim. Same conversation.”

This continues for a few minutes as he tries to recall and cannot. I usually end the conversation offering to allow this conversation to happen every week at the market if we can let my memory stand as fact in arguments. 🙂

And, really, it’s not just the fish ponds. In Sherwood, we re-discovered the Fedex Kinkos on McCain about eight times. We’d be driving and Stephen would say, “Oh! I didn’t know there was a Fedex Kinkos there! I love Fedex Kinkos.” And again, it usually was followed by a stare, to which he explained, “That would be helpful if…[insert time-applicable scenario].”

And since he’s just twenty-three, I think we’ll have fun getting old. He just won’t remember it.

level of organization.

May 1, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli Leave a Comment

I received two birthday emails from our insurance company on two different days.

…This worries me a little for their level of organization.

four?!

April 29, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli, photos Leave a Comment

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Oh, yes, FOUR packages arrived for us yesterday, and we had a massive birthday & Easter & fun things celebration…

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Trying granola from the Wessons. Homemade, perhaps?  I don’t know, but it was amazing for breakfast!

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And probably the best birthday card ever from Gabe!

whew.

April 26, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli Leave a Comment

We started this past weekend with Stephen teaching me to drive a motorbike on Saturday morning. It was going so well; I had driven around a local neighborhood for about an hour and was starting to get the hang of it all. We stopped back by the Partners office to pick something up, and I was going to drive us out of the neighborhood and have Stephen take over on the main roads.

But I didn’t make it out of the Partners driveway. I took out the pole that forms the left side of the gate, and Stephen drove us away with blood on my arms.
Boo.

The weekend was then spent resting. I now have a large gash on my right hand, an even larger raw and swollen bump on my right arm, and five deep blue bruises on my legs.

Stephen went out Sunday to grab some bandages and more ibuprofen from the pharmacy. He came back an hour later with our cell phone in a grocery bag–apparently he had dropped it in the sewer. This is something, honestly, that we probably would have left behind. (We have cruddy phones here, too, you see.) Unfortunately a few locals saw it happen and began to show Stephen how to remove the cover on the sewage and get it out. Not wanting to risk being the rich foreigner that doesn’t need to recover the phone (which is actually the not-so-rich foreigner that has a cheap phone to begin with), Stephen reached in to get it and returned home with sewage on his hand and a bag that held the phone in a blackish liquid. And after cleaning it off and soaking it in rice, Stephen’s still not sure he even wants to keep it and hold it up to his face.

Whew.

We then headed out Monday morning to visit two refugee camps a little further out.  They require about four to five hours of driving on decent roads to a town north of Mae Sot, then about two more hours of off-road driving to get to the refugee camps. Unfortunately, it rained the entire way there. This is unfortunate for a couple reasons: first, driving in the rain on very curvy and very mountainous roads is already difficult. Second, they were doing construction along the decent roads, leaving miles of sandy dirt-turned-mud messes.  Stephen got to put his 4WD skills into practice early and managed to drive us passed two trucks stuck in the mud and at least three that were simply sliding down the mud hills. He did excellent, but it made the trip about 6 hours.

Once we arrived in the town, we had to decide if we should continue.  The next two hours of off-road shouldn’t be done in rainy season, and though it’s not right now, our friends in town told us it had been raining for two or three days already on the mountain. We didn’t have to think about it too long because it turns out the official that needed to sign our camp passes was out of the office all of last week (unexplainably) and we couldn’t enter the camps anyway.

Stephen said he was indecisive enough he was just thankful someone made the decision for us.

We still unloaded the hygiene packs and a few treats for the kids we had carted up here for our week at the children’s homes, but it was too late to head back on those muddy roads at night.

We then spent the night at a local farm, Paradise, that Partners has been working with to start pig & fish projects.

Before long, we were asked to go to a funeral for the evening.  We went to a village about twenty minutes into the mountains to find a huge celebration.

[Side note: The first thing we noticed? The bugs. They were everywhere. I can’t even describe it. Hundreds of thousands of them: flying in the air, running into your face and ears, landing on your legs, under your feet, on the floor, and on the walls. Very similar to what I’d imagine the plagues were like in Exodus. I’d like to say this is beside the point, but really it was very hard to focus on a speech in another language when bugs are crawling into your orifices and clothes.]

That’s what funerals are here, though: typically a celebration with singing, a few prayers and speeches, food, more singing, and sometimes games.  As the gulawahs (white people), we did our honorary singing of a song for the service and then sat around afterward and played hymns and songs for over an hour.  Some songs are translated hymns or worship songs from the 90’s, so we can sing & play along. Others are completely foreign to us, so we’re trying to read along and keep up in the Karen songbook, which is hopeless.

We also got to play a game similar to hot potato, where a cup is passed around while the music plays. If you’re caught with it, you have to “do something you don’t want to do” for everyone. The one round where they actually made the person do it (it’s pretty easy to be shy and get out of it) he stood up and told us his name and what it meant in Karen. Needless to say, it was nearly riveting.

And here we are. We drove back today and we’re safely back in Mae Sot about four days early!

Whew.

target.

April 25, 2011 by Stephen & Kelli Spurlock Filed Under: kelli Leave a Comment

This is sad, but y’know what I really miss?

Lame, I know, but it’s true.

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